![]() Now on to the questions for others who have these. ![]() With the settings above, I was able to sustain 65 MPH and hit 17 MPG consistently. I also have been playing with the driving coach. Couldn't ever do that more than a little chirp before. I can also do a burnout for about 5 seconds now before the ECU cuts power enough to stop it. ![]() With the sensitivity up on the throttle, that reluctant-to-downshift feeling is almost completely gone. I noticed a definite difference off the line with the 2* advance, WOT removed, 87 tune, and Performance level throttle sensitivity. I really dig all the different things this tuner can do. Not so much for warranty issues but if there is some TSB or recall out that you dont know about and they try and flash the ECU overtop the BD tune it can brick it.Well, after reading this thread, and installing the files dudley sent me (thanks again man!), I was up and running in about 30 minutes. ![]() I do know that if you need to reflash to stock if you bring your vehicle in for service. The NA Tundra guys it was very hit or miss. I also know the Tundra supercharged guys saw huge gains. I know diesel guys swear by them and my neighbor has one on his F350 that saw huge gains. It is certainly no AEM or Haltech standalone but it is supposed to be one of the better flashing options over something like a Unichip or Hypertech. You may see a short term gain but as the ECU adjusts you can lose down the line. I have run piggybacks in the Tundra and my old cars and with modern cars many ECU's will simply learn around the piggybacked tuner. It is not a simple piggyback, you can actually flash and then remove the unit entirely although you gain a nice gauge tool leaving it in. Remember the Neon ACR days? Buddy was a Dodge tech and they did quite a bit of tweaking!Īnyways - I am not sure if you have used or seen the Bully Dog units but the BD actually flashes the ECU which is one reason why it is so easy to brick your ECU. I do know about the "stock motor/ecu" combos being run in "spec" cars. I never ran actual IT or NASA wheel to wheel events, just track days and time attack events. Mid-O, Nelson and the old BeaveRun were all local tracks. Nice to see you build cars as well, I was a cone dodger for about two decades and did quite a few track events when I lived up north. I've been wrenching a long time but I am definitely not certified. Sometimes tech sucks, gimme a 440 sixpack anyday. Most "chips" on the market these days confuse temp readings the ecu see's aka intake air temp is 20 F and coolant temp is 195 f, so the ecu fattens the mixture just a tad and tries to get the fuel trim within it's parameters. The ecu will only function within a fairly narrow band of inputs / outputs. The factory ecu's are generally the best compromise between performance and emissions, And as a rule are pretty hard to improve on for a daily driver. , You've got to understand that most folks won't say their chip did nothing. About 75 hrs into tune time on a "stock motor "with a "factory" ecu". But one of my spec miata motor's did set a lap record at robling road a few years back, that still stands for a 1.6. And I can speak from experience That unless you get wide band sensors and a programmable ECU, most so called plug and play chips are BS. I've been wrench twisting as a ase master for about 40 years now.
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